Hand weaving technology of Nanjing Yunjin wood machine makeup flower

Name of China's national intangible cultural heritage: Nanjing Yunjin wood machine make-up flower hand weaving technology

Applicant: Jiangsu Hantang brocade technology Co., Ltd

Item No.: 363

Project No.: VIII - 13

Time of publication: 2011 (the third batch)

Category: traditional art

Region: Jiangsu Province

Type: Extension Project

Applicant: Jiangsu Hantang brocade technology Co., Ltd

Protection unit: Jiangsu Hantang brocade technology Co., Ltd

Brief introduction of hand weaving technology of Nanjing Yunjin wood machine makeup flower:

Applicant: Jiangsu Hantang brocade technology Co., Ltd

Yun Brocade is the most precious brocade, its technology can be used as a typical representative of traditional weaving technology. Nanjing's Brocade and gold ornaments began in Yuan Dynasty, while the gold ornaments with colorful makeup flourished in Ming and Qing Dynasties. At present, it is mainly distributed in Baixia, Xuanwu, Qinhuai, Jianye and Qixia districts of Nanjing city.

Nanjing Yunjin is woven by hand with the traditional dahualou loom, which is made by the cooperation of the flower puller and the weaver. This kind of operation is labor-intensive and has a high level of craftsmanship. The old artists have the "one swing, two press, three copy, four skills, five mention, six hold, seven drag, eight pull, nine scatter" pattern drawing formula. The weavers should step on the opening, throw the shuttle tube by hand, read the formula by mouth, match colors in mind, watch six ways and cooperate with the whole body. The main varieties of Yunnan brocade are Zhijin, Kujin, kusatin and makeup flower. The first three types can be produced by modern machines. The only way to make up flower is by hand.

With the development of modern science and technology, new varieties of silk are constantly emerging, the market demand for Yunjin is decreasing, and the learning cycle is long, the labor is monotonous, boring, and the intensity is high. Young people are not willing to engage in this work. Nanjing Yunjin wood machine makeup hand weaving technology is in danger of being lost.