Wool spinning and rolling skills (felt rolling skills of Dongxiang nationality)

The name of China's national intangible cultural heritage: wool textile and rolling skills (Dongxiang People's rolling felt skills)

Applicant: Dongxiang Autonomous County, Gansu Province

Project No.: 884

Project No.: VIII - 101

Time of publication: 2008 (second batch)

Category: traditional art

Region: Gansu Province

Type: new item

Applicant: Dongxiang Autonomous County, Gansu Province

Protection unit: cultural center of Dongxiang Autonomous County

Brief introduction of wool spinning and rolling technology (Dongxiang People's rolling felt Technology)

Applicant: Dongxiang Autonomous County, Gansu Province

The rolling technology of wool spinning is a special weaving technology. It first soaks wool and camel hair with hot water, then extrudes them, and then uses sticks to grind and rub them together to form a non-woven wool fabric called "felt". Felt was called "or" in ancient times. As early as the Neolithic age, the technology of rolling felt with stick has been used in China. According to the historical records of the Zhou Dynasty: felt, wool, rubbing wool or felt. In the Northern Wei Dynasty (386-534), Jia Sixie's Qi Min Yao Shu said: "it is not necessary to make thick felt, but it is better to make it tight and thin." It can be seen that the manufacture of felt was common at that time. In the Tang Dynasty, the use of felt became more common. The saddle felt in Yuanzhou (now Gu County in Ningxia), Lingzhou (now Lingwu County in Ningxia), ningzhou (now Ning County in Gansu) and Fengzhou (now Wuyuan County in Inner Mongolia) were well-known in Northwest China. According to the records of the new Tang Dynasty, the Tubo state (located on today's Qinghai Tibet Plateau) was also famous for its red felt and xiafelt, and paid tribute to Chang'an. At present, the main producing areas of felt are concentrated in Sichuan, Gansu, Qinghai, Inner Mongolia, Ningxia and other northwest minority areas. According to the use, it can be divided into many varieties, including Kang felt, cushion felt, prayer felt, inner felt (surrounded by inner wall of yurt, etc.), outer felt (surrounded by outer wall), colored felt (rolled with colored wool), embroidered felt (decorated with embroidery), cut felt (according to felt) On the color pattern outline cut into a body shape), stove felt (placed next to the stove), etc. Felt can also be used for sewing satchels, girdles, sundry bags, etc. it is an indispensable necessity in the daily life of northwest ethnic minorities.

Dongxiang Autonomous County is located in the southwest of the central part of Gansu Province. As early as the Yuan Dynasty to the Yuan Dynasty, rolling felt craft appeared in Dongxiang. It was introduced from Central Asia by the sarta people, the ancestors of Dongxiang nationality. In history, this skill has spread throughout the Autonomous County, and Longquan, Dongling and other townships are the most prominent.

Rolling felt is a traditional process of Dongxiang nationality, which includes wool selection, elastic loosening, forming, felt washing, etc. The types of felt include spring felt, sand felt (made of goat hair), autumn felt and cotton felt, among which autumn felt and cotton felt are the best. According to the size and specification, the felt can be divided into four or six felt (4 feet wide and 6 feet long), five or seven felt, single felt, worship felt, etc. according to the color, it can be divided into white felt, flower felt, red felt, tile green felt (made of black and white wool), etc. In addition, felt can also be made into felt hat, felt shoes, Felt Saddle (cushion saddle) and so on. Dongxiang felt is well-known in Northwest China for its softness, comfort, symmetry, cleanness, beauty and durability. It is deeply loved by people of all ethnic groups and people in pastoral areas. Because of this, it has become one of the important dowries for girls in the local area.

With the development of the society and the change of the times, the felt making technology has been impacted by the modern textile technology and almost lost. The "felt making technology" has no successors and needs to be protected.