Yao Costume

Name of China's national intangible cultural heritage: Yao costumes

Applicant: Nandan county, Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region

Item No.: 515

Project No.: Ⅹ - 67

Time of publication: 2006 (the first batch)

Category: folk customs

Region: Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region

Type: new item

Applicant: Nandan county, Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region

Protection unit: Nandan intangible cultural heritage protection and inheritance Center

Brief introduction of Yao Costume:

Applicant: Nandan county, Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region

The clothing of Yao nationality in Nandan county of Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region is very prominent in the clothing of Yao nationality in Guangxi, which is divided into men's clothing and women's clothing. Men's clothing can be divided into dressings and plain clothes. Chicken flower is the main decorative pattern, which can be seen in men's and women's clothing, reflecting the reverence for chicken.

The plain clothes of the Yao nationality in Nandan are blue and black with a stand collar and a cardigan, with a pattern of chicken flowers embroidered on both sides of the chest; the trousers are made of white cloth, the length of which is just over the knee, and the legs of which are bordered with black cloth. The outer edge of the top of Nandan Yao men's dress is bordered with blue cloth, and the two sides of the waist and the lower edge of the back are embroidered with chicken flower and rice pattern. There are five red patterns embroidered on the knees of the Yao men's white trousers in Nandan. It is said that these are the blood fingerprints left by the Yao king during the war with other nationalities.

The top of Nandan Yao women's summer dress is called "coat", which is sewn by two pieces of square cloth at the front and back. The front is pure black cloth, and the back is made of various patterns by means of dyeing and embroidery. The winter coat is generally right lapel, sleeve clothing and no button. Regardless of winter and summer, all the Yao women in Nandan wear blue pleated skirts with knee length. The skirt surface is painted with tree sap and dyed into three groups of circular patterns, and the skirt edge is bordered with red non-woven silk. The unique SAP dyeing technology is used in the tops and skirts of Yao women's clothing in Nandan.

Whether it is needling, embroidering, inlaying or dyeing, its physical form has become a national cultural symbol, expressing the life interest and specific cultural idea of Nandan Yao nationality, which has an important position and value in the clothing culture of China's ethnic minorities.

Hezhou City is located in the mountainous area of the five ridges on the border of Hunan, Guangdong and Guangxi. It is the main inhabited area of Yao nationality in China. Hezhou Yao costume is divided into three categories: Guoshan Yao, Tuyao and Pingdi Yao. Among them, only the headdress of Guoshan Yao can be divided into three categories and seven kinds, such as pointed head, flat head and baopa. For example, the pointed end is divided into tower type, oblique type and small pointed end; the flat end is divided into brocade and yarn wrapping; the bandanna is divided into single bandanna and heavy bandanna.

The patterns of Hezhou Yao's costumes have distinct historical characteristics of national culture. For example, a large number of animal patterns and plant patterns reflect the transition of Yao people from fishing and hunting economy to farming economy; a large number of human patterns and "" character patterns reflect the profound influence of Yao people's primitive religious worship and Buddhist culture. In addition, Hezhou Yao clothing also reflects the Yao people's age, marriage, love and social status. It is of great academic value and practical significance to study and protect Yao's costumes.