Weaving and dyeing techniques of felt and printed fabric

Name of China's national intangible cultural heritage: weaving and dyeing techniques of felt and printed fabric

Applicant: Qiemo County, Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region

Item No.: 373

Project No.: VIII - 23

Time of publication: 2008 (second batch)

Category: traditional art

Region: Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region

Type: Extension Project

Applicant: Qiemo County, Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region

Protection unit: Qiemo Cultural Center

Introduction to weaving and dyeing technology of felt and printed fabric:

Applicant: Qiemo County, Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region

Xinjiang Uygur people have a long history of weaving and dyeing, among which the weaving and dyeing of felt and printed cloth are the most famous. The Uygur people have a tradition of using wool felt. They have to decorate every place that can be seen by the eyes. The flower felt used for Kang, floor, worship and wall hanging is one of the decoration. Until the 1990s, the Uygur people had never left huafelt in their daily life. So far, a few houses with earthen Kang are still in use.

Qiemo county's tapestry production process includes embossed felt, printed felt, painted felt and embroidered felt. Its patterns are rich in themes, bright colors and various types, which vary from region to region, including Shouwen, Huiwen and Bogu patterns influenced by Han culture, geometric and flower patterns of Arabian style, as well as Uygur daily necessities, tool patterns and Yisi patterns The patterns of Jinghu and shengniche in the style of orchidism, even Nestorianism and Buddhism.

Flower felt is also an important daily necessities of Kazakh people, which is called "srmak" in Kazakh language. Kazakh tapestry is mostly double-layer, thicker than ordinary felt, tightly sewn and durable, which can be handed down to generations. It mainly spread in Tacheng, Ili, Altay, Mulei, Balikun and other Kazakh pastoral areas. Tacheng is a relatively concentrated area of Kazak in Xinjiang, and floral felt is widely used. Kazakh flower felt has a history of more than 2000 years. Its main raw materials are wool, wool, colored cloth, dyes, etc. the whole production process is composed of shearing wool, beating wool, rolling felt, drawing design, pattern dyeing, etc. the production methods include felt paste, cloth paste, felt and cloth combination, embroidery, etc. Kazakh flower felt mainly includes cushion flower felt, bed flower felt, dowry flower felt, flower felt used by stove and so on. The colorful and rich patterns reflect the ideals and wishes of Kazakh herdsmen, and provide specific materials for the study of Kazakh traditional culture, aesthetic thought, living customs and other aspects. The production process and process are strict and reasonable, which meets the scientific requirements, and also has the research value of the history of minority arts and crafts.

At present, the industrial carpet production and the appearance of chemical fiber carpet have greatly impacted the market of hand rolling and embroidery felt. In this case, most young people do not want to learn how to make flower felt. Only a few old people master this skill. There is no successor to the traditional flower felt making process, and they are in danger of losing it.

Die stamping is an ancient traditional handicraft in Yingjisha County of Xinjiang Uygur nationality. People use their own white cloth as the base material and use relief die stamping for printing. The molds used in printing and dyeing are all hand carved from wood, and the size depends on the size of the pattern. The colors of the patterns are mostly bright red, pink, fruit green, medium yellow, light yellow and so on, while the patterns are mostly based on flowers, fruit plants and household utensils. This kind of calico is mainly used for wall enclosure, wall hanging, waist towel, meal list, mattress, curtain and so on. It has strong national style and local color, and gives people a sense of simplicity, elegance and generosity. It is deeply loved by the Uygur people.

Yingjisha county's model stamp printed cloth reflects the living conditions of the local people a thousand years ago, provides information for exploring the development and changes of the Uygur nationality, and has high historical research value.