Hand weaving technology of Nanjing Yunjin wood machine makeup flower

Name of China's national intangible cultural heritage: Nanjing Yunjin wood machine make-up flower hand weaving technology

Applicant: Nanjing City, Jiangsu Province

Item No.: 363

Project No.: VIII - 13

Time of publication: 2006 (the first batch)

Category: traditional art

Region: Jiangsu Province

Type: new item

Applicant: Nanjing City, Jiangsu Province

Protection unit: Nanjing Yunjin Research Institute Co., Ltd

Brief introduction of hand weaving technology of Nanjing Yunjin wood machine makeup flower:

Applicant: Nanjing City, Jiangsu Province

Among the ancient silk fabrics, "Brocade" represents the highest technical level. Nanjing Yun brocade has condensed the essence of China's silk weaving skills, and is one of the three famous brocade in China. The production of Nanjing Yunjin is mainly distributed in Qinhuai, Jianye, Baixia, Xuanwu and Qixia districts of Nanjing. More than 1500 years ago, there were written records about Nanjing silk products in historical records, but there was no real record. At the end of the Eastern Jin Dynasty, Nanjing had an organization specializing in brocade production, douchang brocade department. After the Northern Song Dynasty moved to the south, Nanjing became China's silk weaving center. Nanjing's Brocade and gold ornaments began in Yuan Dynasty, while the gold ornaments with colorful makeup flourished in Ming and Qing Dynasties.

Nanjing Yunjin is made by hand with the help of traditional dahualou wood loom and the cooperation of dragger and Weaver. This kind of operation is labor-intensive and has a high level of craftsmanship. The old artists have the "one swing, two press, three copy, four skills, five mention, six hold, seven drag, eight pull, nine scatter" pattern drawing formula. The weavers should step on the opening, throw the shuttle tube by hand, read the formula by mouth, match colors in mind, watch six ways and cooperate with the whole body. The main varieties of Yunnan brocade are Zhijin, Kujin, kusatin and makeup flower. The first three types can be produced by modern machines, but the "flower digging and disc weaving" and "flower by flower" of makeup flower can only be done by hand.

Nanjing Yunjin contains rich cultural and technological connotations, which can provide empirical materials for the history of Chinese arts and crafts, science and technology, and culture. During the period from Kangxi to Jiaqing of Qing Dynasty, the production scale of Nanjing brocade was huge, with more than 30000 wooden looms and more than 200000 people engaged in this industry, with an annual output of more than one million brocades and an output value of more than 30 million taels of silver. At the end of Guangxu period, Yunnan brocade industry began to decline. When Nanjing was liberated in 1949, only four Yunnan brocade looms could be produced in Nanjing. After 1949, through rescue, support and protection, Yunjin art has been inherited.

With the development of modern science and technology, new varieties of silk weaving are constantly emerging, the upgrading of clothing fabrics is accelerating, and the market demand for brocade is decreasing. In addition, with the long learning cycle and high labor intensity of brocade, most young people are reluctant to engage in this work, and the hand-made weaving technology of make-up flower is on the verge of being lost. At present, there are 24 inheritors confirmed by Yunjin Research Institute, all of whom have many years of experience in Yunjin design and weaving. We should protect and make good use of this resource, so that Nanjing brocade art can be inherited and developed.