Changtse

Changtse

Zhangzifeng, with an altitude of 7543 meters, is the 45th highest peak in the world. It is located at 86 ° 54 ′ 51 ″ E and 28 ° 1 ′ 31 ″ n, belonging to the Himalayas. Zhang Zifeng is located in Dingri County, Tibet Autonomous Region, China. Zhangzifeng in Tibetan means "the peak in the north", because it is 4.2km north of Mount Qomolangma, and there is a depression between the two peaks, which is commonly known as the "north depression". According to the elevation of 7028m in Beiao, the terrain protrusion of zhangzifeng is 515m

. Zhangzi mountain belongs to Everest nature reserve.

Although zhangzifeng in Tibetan means "the peak in the north", it still has another common name - Beifeng, because it is north of Mount Qomolangma and close to Mount Qomolangma

.

History of mountaineering

Zhang Zifeng first climbed the summit on October 3, 1982, but this time he did not get permission. On October 14, 1982, the West German mountaineering team ascended Zhangzi peak, which was the first time that Zhangzi peak was allowed to climb. In 1983, Zhang Zifeng achieved his first solo summit. In 1986, the Sino Japanese joint mountaineering team ascended Zhangzi peak, which was also the first time that a woman ascended Zhangzi peak.

Mountaineering route

Southeast Ridge Route

Shanqianjin camp is divided into three camps along the southeast ridge, which is characterized by gentle slope, simple route and long route. In spring, there is less snow, more ice and rock mixed terrain, which is more dangerous, and the technical requirements of team members are higher; in autumn, there is deep snow and great physical consumption. The southeast ridge is suitable for autumn climbing

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Northeast route

There are also three campsites, the mountain forward camp, through the North Peak glacier to the bottom of the north wall, directly climbing. There are many crevices in the glacier of Beifeng, and the route is more complex, but the March distance is shorter and the speed is faster than that of the southeast Ridge Route. Avalanche is easy to occur in some parts of the Northeast wall when the snow is deep. In spring, there is little snow, the suspended glacier is not developed, and the cracks are obvious, so it is easy to distinguish; in autumn, the snow is deep, the suspended glacier is developed, and the avalanche is easy to occur. The Northeast route is suitable for spring climbing.

Address: Dingri County, Shigatse

Longitude: 86.9091666

Latitude: 28.0258333

Ticket information: free.