Traditional cotton textile technology

Name of China's national intangible cultural heritage: traditional cotton textile technology

Applicant: Jiashi County, Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region

Project No.: 883

Project No.: VIII - 100

Time of publication: 2008 (second batch)

Category: traditional art

Region: Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region

Type: new item

Applicant: Jiashi County, Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region

Protection unit: Jiashi County Cultural Center

Introduction to traditional cotton textile technology:

Applicant: Jiashi County, Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region

China's traditional textile technology has a long history. Since the introduction of cotton from India in the 7th century, China's textile industry has changed from hemp spinning to cotton spinning. In the Yuan Dynasty, under the influence of Huang Daopo's textile technology reform, the textile industry in Wei county and Feixiang County of Hebei province gradually developed and flourished, and the quilt made of native cloth became a necessity of people's life.

The traditional textile technology in Weixian County of Hebei Province is complicated, including 12 processes, such as rubbing knot, spinning, knitting, dyeing, sizing, winding, warp, printing, pulling, weaving, binding machine and weaving. The key process to determine the pattern and pattern of textile fabric is the design and arrangement of the warp and weft color lines and the determination of the pattern. There are three kinds of tie: two, three and one. The two can weave white cloth and striped cloth with a single shuttle, while the orderly arrangement of warp and weft can weave a variety of checkered cloth. After a long period of production practice, women in Weixian county have created more than 200 weaving patterns of striped and patterned fabrics.

In Feixiang County, Hebei Province, there are spinning, weaving, sizing, winding, warping, brushing, printing, pulling, weaving, weaving, pasting and other processes for weaving Chinese character homespun cloth. When weaving, the calligraphy pattern is pasted under the winding shaft of the loom, and the font pattern can be seen through the warp line. The corresponding words can be woven according to the string shuttle of the font. In addition to calligraphy, we can also weave patterns of pepper, twill, fish eye, Xu Zhuangyuan Baita, butterfly and so on. In the 1960s, due to the development of machine textile industry, the production of native cloth gradually declined. At present, the old weaving craftsmen have died one after another, and the young people are unwilling to learn this traditional craft, which leads to the loss of the craft of weaving words and homespun cloth.

Xinjiang Jiashi County Uygur traditional hand-made cotton textile technology has a broad mass base, its ancient mode of production is still retained, the process is in the order of marbling, spinning, turning, winding, warp, printing, pulling, weaving and so on. In the 19th century, the traditional Uyghur hand-made textile techniques of Jiashi county were specialized in every village, and the cotton cloth produced was deeply loved by the masses. As an important part of traditional culture in Xinjiang, the traditional hand-made textile technology reflects and represents the common thinking habits and living customs of northwest ethnic groups, standardizes people's way of life, and has important cultural and practical value. After the 1990s, with the acceleration of industrialization process, all kinds of new clothing fabrics poured into the market, and modern textiles replaced hand-made weaving, which caused a great impact on the traditional Uygur hand-made textile technology, resulting in the reduction of market demand for hand-made textile. Hand-made Textile Artists transformed into other industries one after another, and the number of hand-made weaving households decreased to more than 10 at present. The average age of the existing old weavers is nearly 60 years old, and they are gradually unable to engage in textile, while the young people are not willing to inherit the traditional hand-made textile skills. The traditional Uygur hand-made textile skills are on the verge of extinction, which is in urgent need of attention.